Lucerna Beauty

One shade, three lights

A foundation does not have one color. It has the color it shows in the light you are standing in. The same shade can look right at your bathroom mirror, yellow in the office and gray in a photo taken with a flash. Most swatches you see online are shot once, under studio lighting designed to flatter. That tells you how a shade looks in a studio.

The Light Test is our answer. Before a Lucerna complexion shade launches, a swatch of it is laid on a gray shade card and photographed three times, and the three photos are published on the product page, next to each other, unretouched for color. The card is the same for every shade, so what changes from one photo to the next is the light and nothing else.

Daylight

Six foundation swipes from fair to rich on a gray shade card in soft daylight, with long soft shadows
Daylight: six Lanternlight shades, from 110N to 430N, on one gray shade card. Indirect, mid-morning, by a north-facing window.

Daylight is the honest one. It is the fullest light there is, so it shows undertone most clearly: a shade that is too warm reads orange, one that is too cool reads gray or pink. We shoot by a window in indirect mid-morning light, never in direct sun, which bleaches everything. If you only check a foundation in one light, check it here, on your jawline.

Warm indoor light

The same six swipes under a warm lamp from the right: the card turns amber and the golden and olive shades lean orange
Warm indoor light: the same six swatches under a living-room lamp. The card turns amber, and the golden and olive shades lean orange.

Most of the evening is spent under warm bulbs. Warm light adds yellow to everything, which makes a warm foundation look more golden and can make a cool one look flat. A shade that matched in daylight should still match here; if it suddenly looks like a mask, the undertone was off and daylight was being kind.

Phone flash

The same six swipes under a phone flash: flat, paler and cooler, with a hot spot on each swipe and darkened corners
Phone flash: the same six swatches, head on, at arm's length. Flatter, paler and cooler, with a hot spot on each one.

Flash is the cruelest light. It is cold, direct and close, and it bounces off anything white in a formula. This is where flashback shows up: the pale cast that makes a face look lighter than the neck in photos. It is why our setting powder comes in five tints instead of one white, and why we test the foundation and the powder together under flash.

Worn on three depths of skin, in the lab

A shade behaves differently on different skin. A sheer blush that reads as a soft flush on light skin can disappear on deep skin, and a lipstick that is a nude on one person is a statement on another. So before a shade is approved, our lab wears it on light, medium and deep skin: cheeks for blush, lips for lipstick, and for foundation, the three wearers whose own depth is closest to the shade. Those wear tests are not photographs on this site. What the product page shows is the swatch on the gray card, and what the wear test taught us is written in the note under each shade.

The oxidation reading

Some foundations change color as they sit on the skin, usually toward orange. It happens as the formula meets the oils and the air on your face. We cannot promise that no skin will ever shift a shade, because skin varies. What we do is wear every Lanternlight shade for four hours and read the color again against the bottle. A shade that drifts is reformulated before it launches.

What the Light Test cannot do

And when the match is still off after all that, the Shade Promise covers one free exchange per order.

  1. Do your own Light Test

    Apply the shade along your jawline, where the face meets the neck.

  2. Daylight

    Stand by a window in indirect light. The shade that disappears is the match.

  3. Indoors, in the evening

    Look again under the lamps you live with.

  4. One flash photo

    Take a photo with flash at arm's length and compare face and neck.

  5. Four hours later

    Look once more. If it has gone orange, try the neutral or the olive at the same depth.

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A good place to start is the matched pair: the foundation, and the concealer the shade card picks for it.

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